Eyelash Extension Chart: Lash Curls, Thicknesses, Volume And Lengths

Eyelash Extension Chart Lash Curls, Thicknesses And Lengths

Many don’t know this but there are many different types of lash curls, thicknesses, volume, and lengths when it comes to eyelash extensions. We have put together a complete eyelash extension chart so anyone can understand the basics of eyelash extensions mapping, different types of

lash curls, thicknesses and lengths. Eyelash extensions can completely transform the face and accentuate your features. But this only works if the lashes are mapped to the person’s facial dimensions, as eyelash extensions are not a one size fits all solution.

Eyelash extensions have to be carefully placed on the person’s natural lashes and meticulously glued and styled for the perfect, natural yet eye-catching look. However, they need to be customized to the person for this to work, and so the client’s facial features can really pop. Customizing

the eyelash extension to the client is called eyelash mapping and is an important part of getting a naturally beautiful-looking set of lash extensions.


Why You Need To Use A Lash Extension Chart To Map Eyelash Extensions


Mapping eyelash extensions is essential to your business. Mapping the eyelashes is where you gauge and determine what length of extension you should be using and the curl of the extension, depending on where you are going to place it on the lash line.

You should also be considering the client’s particular eye shape and lid to ensure that the eyelashes have the right curl, shape, length and thickness for their eyes to give them a more complementary look. You need to be able to know if you need to use downward angle natural lashes,

upward angled natural lashes, slightly downward angled lashes and the sort. With an eyelash extension chart you can figure out how to create a naturally enhanced lash appearance for your client and give them the fabulous look they are wanting.

By practicing eyelash extension mapping, you will be giving your clients a more customized look with a personal feel, and your services will be more in demand than ever. It also gives you a sense of professionalism, as you will be able to tell and gauge which types of lashes suit which

clients, with a wider, more in-depth knowledge of your craft. From Clients with naturally straight lashes to those with heavily hooded eyelids you will know how to proceed with them to give them the best look for there appearance.


Ultimate Guide To Eyelash Curls


There are so many different types of eyelash curls. Some lash extension curls are more defined than others to give a range of fan shape lashes. Depending on the person or client’s own lashes, different curls may have a varying effect.

What this means is that you could use the same curl type on three different clients, but they will all end up with different looking and shaped eyelash extensions. This is because some people have downward angled natural lashes, and some have upward angle natural lashes.

If you use a natural curl on a client that has upward angled natural lashes, then you can get a good lift, but if you use them on downward angle lashes, then you will not get that ‘open eye effect’. Therefore, the intensity of the curl when fitted depends on the angle of the client’s natural lashes.

Some eyelash technicians will simply purchase the most popular C curl and D curl eyelash extensions, but this is very limiting, as they may not suit everyone, and you will be alienating clients that require different eyelash curls in order to create the desired effect.

Therefore, before picking the type of eyelash extension curl for the client, you will need to know the angle of their natural lashes, as this can hugely impact the end result. There are three different types of natural lash angles, downward angled lashes, upward angled lashes and straight natural lashes.


Which Lash Curls To Use On Different Eyelash Angles


Lash Curl Type

Downward Angle Lash

Upwards Angle Lash

Straight Lash

I curl No No Yes
J curl No Open eye effect Lash lift effect
B curl No Open eye effect Lash lift effect
C curl Lash lift effect Yes but carefully Open eye effect
D curl Open eye effect No Doll eye effect
U curl Open eye effect No Doll eye effect
M curl Lash lift effect No Wide eye effect
L curl No No Wide eye effect

As you can see from the table above, certain types suit certain natural lash types, and can give different effects and results depending on the angle of the lashes.


How To Choose The Right Lash Curl –  Chart


To help you choose the perfect curl for your clients, take a look at this eyelash extension curl chart below for guidance.

How To Choose The Right Curl - Chart
Image Source

Depending on what look the client wants, you can choose different eyelash extension curls. For instance, some lashes have a more subtle curl for a natural effect, whereas others have more defined curls to create dramatic eye looks.


Subtle Lash Extension Curls


For very natural-looking lashes, clients will need subtle lash curls that can blend with their own lashes. I Curl, J Curl, and B Curl lashes all tend to be in the more subtle lash extension curls type.

I Curl Lashes

First up, we have I curl lashes. I curl lashes are mostly used for male clients who want to give their natural lashes a little bit of a boost, but don’t want that big curling effect. I Curl lashes are best used on straight lashes, and do not have much of a curl in them, they simply enhance and define the natural eyelashes without making the eyes seem open or lifted

J Curl Lashes

Then we have J curl lashes. These lashes are not as straight as the I curl, and have a natural looking curl in them much like our own eyelashes. These types of curls are best for those clients who have straight eyelashes or ones that point upwards, as applying these to clients with downward angled natural lashes can make the eyes look too overloaded, small and heavy.

If your client wants a natural look, then J curls will be very beneficial, however, they look different on different lashes. On upward angle natural lashes, they provide an open eye effect, and on straight angled lashes they give a satisfying lash lift effect, so keep that in mind when exploring J Curl eyelash extensions

B Curl Lashes

The last of the subtle lash curls is the B curl lash extension. These are very subtle and softly curled, which will enhance the natural lashes, but will not look extremely over the top or dramatic. These lashes are great for straight natural lashes and will lift and emphasize the eyes.

B Curl lash extensions are perfect for those with straight or upward lashes as they will give a bit of oomph and open up the eyes.

They can also be used for the inner corner lashes, as the curl is very subtle and not too much that it could irritate the eyes in this delicate area. Again, the B curl lash extensions are not suitable for downward angled lashes.


Dramatic Lash Curls


Next, we have dramatic lash curls for clients who really want to define and emphasize the eyes.

C Curl Lashes

C curl lashes are arguably the most popular lash curls when it comes to eyelash extensions. These lashes give that perfect, rounded curl to lift up the lashes and create an open eye effect.

In addition, C curls are perfect for those with straighter lashes, or a slight natural curl to them, but they will also create an open eye effect for those with slightly downward angle lashes, but not if they are heavily downward angled lashes.

If your client has slightly horizontal facing lashes, then the C curl will be perfect for them as it will create a beautifully fabulous doll eye effect, which is very desirable for many client’s natural lash look

D Curl Lashes (CC curl)

D curl lashes are also referred to as CC curl lashes as they are a step above the regular C curl lashes, with a more defined curl.

These types of extensions are highly recommended and effective for downward angle natural lashes as they will be extremely curled up and lifted for a very eye-catching look. This can also widen the eye and make them seem larger and more alluring.

As CC or D curl lashes have a very dramatic curl, they may not be suitable for clients with very dramatic upward curl on their  natural lashes, as the extension will hit the eyelids and can be very irritating or can cause discomfort, so keep these for downward angle lashes.

U Curl Lashes (DD curl)

The curliest lashes available are U curl lashes or DD curl lashes. These are best suited to clients with heavily downward angled lashes who want very dramatic, bold and doll eye results. As these lashes are extremely curled, they will provide a very noticeable, non-natural look.

Whilst these lashes give a strong open eye effect on downward angled lashes, again, they are not suitable for upward angle lashes or on heavily hooded eyelids like those with asian ethnicity as the curl will hit the eyelids constantly and cause irritation.


Lift Up Curl Lashes


For many clients, a lifted lash look is highly desirable, and can make the eyes seem wider, more open and more attractive. For this, you’ll need ‘lift up curl’ lashes. M Curl and L Curl & L+Lashes fall into the lift up category.

M Curl Lashes

M curl lashes have a dramatic curl upwards, but a flatter base so that they suit downward angled natural lashes. This can give those with downward facing lashes that lift effect, without overloading the lash line while give the client a naturally enhanced lash appearance. Because of this, you cannot use M curl on upward angled lashes or clients with heavily hooded eyelids.

L Curl & L+ Lashes

L curl and L+ lashes work in a similar way as they also have the flat base, but the ultimate lift with a defined noticeable curled effect. These lashes are essentially the same as C or D curls, but have that flatter base to fit clients with hooded or droopy eyelids.

These types of curls are not suitable for slightly downward angled lashes, as they can make the eyes seem heavy and overloaded, which can be very unflattering and uncomfortable.


How To Keep Lash Curl Shape?


Depending on which curl shape and lashes you use, some may retain their curls for longer or last longer. For the most part, the curlier the lash is, the shorter the retention time is, as they may struggle to stick onto the eyelid and lash line because they do not have much of a base that can adhere strongly.

It is for this reason that many lash technicians prefer to use lash brands that have a longer base before the curl, as the extra space on the flat base gives more room to adhere the lash extension, and it can stick to the lash line for longer, increasing retention times.

It is also vital that you keep the eyelash extensions in a cool, dry place away from any humidity, heat or sunlight, as this will ensure that they keep their shape and curl for much longer, and the materials do not expire.


Ultimate Lash Extension Guide – Thickness & Length


It’s not just the curl of the lashes that you have to think about, you also have to consider the thickness and many different lengths of eyelash extensions.

We sort of touched upon the length before, as lashes too long for the client’s eyes will touch the eyelid above, which can cause irritation, but lashes too heavy can also weigh the lashes down too much.

Choosing lashes too heavy or long for the client can result in bad retention, and the lash extensions will fall out prematurely. Take a look at the guide below to see how the lengths and thicknesses of the lashes compare.


Eyelash Extensions Size Thickness, Length And Curl Chart


Ultimate Lash Extension Guide - Thickness & Length
Image Source

For many clients, lash extensions thicker than 0.20 can be too heavy for their natural eyelashes, which could cause them to become damaged and fall out. This is the last thing you want. Eyelash extensions are meant to accentuate the natural lashes, not damage them beyond repair, so you have to be careful when choosing the weight and length of the lash extensions for your clients.


How Do I Choose The Right Thickness Of Lash?


When choosing the right lash thickness, you have to consider the client’s natural lash. To do this, you can compare the natural lashes with your eyelash extensions, as they are all labeled with thickness to give you a rough idea. Follow our eyelash extension chart for the details.

Then, you will be able to tell what kind of lashes to use, and what thickness, because you can gauge what weight the client’s natural lashes can handle.

As a general rule of thumb, we recommend using lighter lashes on older clients, because as we age, the eyelashes become thinner and more brittle, so heavy lashes are not suitable.

In addition, some people of Asian ethnicities tend to have thinner eyelashes, so you may need to use lighter lashes on those clients.

For many younger clients, the lashes are strong, and you do not need to worry too much about the weight of the eyelash extensions, but you should look at their natural lashes to ensure that the extensions you use are suitable.


Using Lash Thickness To Create Different Looks


Depending on the style of lashes your client wants, you can use different lash thicknesses. For instance, if a client wants ‘Classic’ lashes, then you may want to use thicker lash extensions, but less of them for a softer, more natural look.

On the other hand, if a client wants Russian volume eyelash extensions with a fan-like effect, then you’ll need to use thinner lashes, but lots of them! You can also opt cat eyelash extensions and many others. Below is an eyelash extension chart showing the lash thickness, style of lash and how to use them to get the desired style for your client.


Eyelash Extension Lash Volume Size Chart


Lash Thickness Style How To Use
0.03 mm Mega Volume Up to 20D
0.05 mm Mega Volume For 6D – 15D
0.06 mm Russian Volume Use for 5D lashes
0.07 mm Russian Volume Use for 5D lashes
0.10 mm Russian Volume & Classic For Volume 2D to 3D or Classic 1D on finer lashes
0.12 mm Classic For thinner lashes for soft look
0.15 mm Classic Most common and popular lash thickness for thick Classic set of lashes
0.18 mm Classic Bolder look for Classic lashes
0.20 mm Classic Only suitable for thick, health natural lashes for Classic set

How To Calculate Lash Volume?


Volume lashes is a lash extension technique, where multiple lash extensions are fanned out and applied to one single natural lash.

As you are applying usually two, three or more lashes to one individual lash, it is vital that you gauge how strong the natural lash is to see how much weight it can hold.

For instance, if using volume lashes, you cannot fan out three heavy and thick lashes if you are applying to a weak natural lash.

Volume lashes are often referred to as 2D, 3D, 5D or more, which just correlates to how many lashes are used for one lash ‘volume fan’. To calculate the right volume fan size for the natural lash, you will need to understand the thickness x weight of the lash extensions.

For instance, if you have 0.15 mm of extension in a standard thickness, and that can be applied on one natural lash, then really thin lashes such as the 0.03mm lash extensions can be used as a volume fan and applied safely to the lash.

To help you plan and map out the perfect lashes of your client, you can use map planning stickers as a guide.


How Do I Choose The Right Length Of Lash?


Finding the right eyelash extension length is the easy part. In general, you will need to use shorter extensions from 5-9mm for the inner corners of the eyes, inner corner lashes are naturally shorter, and lash extensions from 9-13mm long in the rest of the set.

You can also mix longer lengths in with the longest lashes to create a natural-looking Hybrid set of lashes. Of course, make sure that the lashes are not so long that they touch the clients’ eyelids when they open or move their eyes.

Clients with hooded eyelids or droopy eyelids will need shorter lashes that do not irritate the lid, and you will need to consider using curls that will bend up and touch the lid.

You should also keep in mind that the more defined the curl is, like C and D curls, the shorter the lash extension will be, as most of its length is taken up by the curl. This is why it is good to use a variety of lash extensions in your work.


Eyelash Extensions Chart: Curls, Diameters, Lengths Video & Summary


To summarize, applying lash extensions is not as easy as it looks. Having an eyelash extension chart to guide you in applying your client’s lashes is important. It takes a lot of time, practice, and expertise to give clients their perfectly defined lash looks that suit their face and eye shape.

When it comes to giving the best results for your clients, you have to do your research and consider which lash curls, lash thicknesses, volume and lengths are right for them, in order to fully accentuate the eyes and give them the desired style that they are looking for. If you are wanting

to learn more about the history of lash extensions and where they came from click on the link to learn more.